Paseo Bistro presents farm-to-table eating, intimate European ambiance – Marin Unbiased Journal

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One definition of a paseo is a “public path or avenue designed for strolling or a promenade, typically towards a spot to dine.” Paseo Bistro in Mill Valley is simply that.

The charming Paseo Bistro in Mill Valley, simply off Throckmorton Avenue close to the CinéArts Sequoia movie show, results in a warren of charming rooms that kind the restaurant, which opened final December. Identified since 1947 as El Paseo, the restaurant with intimate European ambiance was bought in 2019 by Mill Valley entrepreneur Ki Yong Choi from native resident and multi-platinum rock musician Sammy Hagar.

The menu, below the helm of government chef Brandon Breazeale, options seasonal and native elements.

As you comply with the pink brick walkway that extends from Sunnyside and Throckmorton avenues, you go one of many eating rooms in your proper and are available to the bar space in your left, then the doorway to the restaurant, then one other eating room with a patio simply past, after which a small lounge space. Every space has its personal attraction.

On the evening we dined, the lounge and bar space had been bustling. Both can be a pleasant place to benefit from the Cheese and Charcuterie Board ($36) and Marinated Olives ($8) with a drink.

Whereas ready for my companion within the bar, I ordered one of many featured cocktails, Boardwalk Horseplay ($17), a refreshing drink that arrived in a squat, bulbous glass topped with a dehydrated wheel of lime. The steadiness of mezcal, lime, cucumber and mint was an ideal palate opener. When my pal arrived, she ordered her favourite cocktail, a Negroni ($16), served up, earlier than we had been seated within the again eating room.

The curated wine record highlights California vintners and craft beers hail from the area. Wines, solely provided by the glass, provide some attention-grabbing and weird tastings. Massican Annia White Mix Napa 2021 ($17), a mix of tocai friulano, ribolla gialla and chardonnay all sourced from Napa, makes you take note of what’s in your glass.

Gallegos Pinot Noir, Boekenoogen Winery, Santa Lucia 2021 ($22) is wealthy with ripe fruit and sound acidity — what I like in a meals wine.

Fortunately imbibed, appetizers had been subsequent. The 38º North Duck Confit ($26) was a complete duck leg confit that sat in a small, velvety puree of sunchokes with a scallop of candied apple to the facet and a drizzle of wealthy, shiny duck sauce. The duck was each a little bit drier and extra evenly seasoned than I anticipated. I like bistro meals to be bit extra boisterous, enjoyable and full of life.

Baked Oyster Rockefeller ($26) featured 4 oysters with caramelized onions, fennel, smoked bacon, fontina, Absinthe and sourdough breadcrumbs. They had been flavorful for certain, however not moist.

Possibly following the duck confit appetizer with the Roasted 38º North Duck Breast ($38) appears redundant, but it surely appealed to my eating companion and so we went for a double-duck dinner. The roasted duck breast was lower down the middle lengthwise with the 2 items of meat glistening with the diminished duck sauce. Slightly squash blossom with its tamale masa filling sat subsequent to it with a swirl of yellow mole on the prime of the plate and Brentwood corn salsa under. Regardless of the presentation, every merchandise was scrumptious. However not essentially problematic.

The tender tamale, chili-rich sauce and citrus-tingled salsa had been great, however the duck was unimaginable to chop. I requested for a pointy knife and was instructed none had been obtainable. We hacked by the duck as greatest we might. It tasted nice — medium uncommon, with scrumptious, moist duck flavors — but when it had been sliced and fanned out on the plate it might have been rather a lot simpler to eat.

We fared higher with the Native Rock Fish ($36). The white fish, with a crispy, seared golden crust, sat atop Iacopi Farms butter beans with braised leeks dappled with dots of Castelvetrano olive tapenade. This was by far the very best dish of the night. The meatiness of the beans, the clear, recent flavors of the fish with the buttery but sharp flavors of the olives had been comforting and satisfying.

Surprisingly, our server introduced us the dessert menu — $5 for bites to $22 for a cheese plate — earlier than bringing us the fish dish. A fast reminder remedied that.

We had been too full to indulge within the made-in-house desserts however they regarded tempting, whether or not the Strawberry Shortcake, Pistachio Cheesecake or Chocolate Indulgence (all $16).

In its former incarnations, the restaurant was a nighttime-only vacation spot. Now friends can benefit from the charming location with an previous Spanish-California really feel for lunch and weekend brunch, too.

Ann Walker is a contract meals author. Electronic mail her with recommendations, feedback and questions at [email protected]

Paseo Bistro

Tackle: 17 Throckmorton Ave., Mill Valley

Telephone: 415-888-3907

Web site:

Delicacies: Trendy bistro

Noise stage: Snug

Liquor choice: Full bar

Corkage: $30 for dinner menu

Vegan dishes: Sure

Gluten-free alternatives: Sure

Canine pleasant: Sure

Parking: Avenue

Hours: 5 to 10 p.m. Tuesdays by Fridays; 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. weekends

Costs: $6 to $56

Reservations: Sure

Abstract: A recent bistro with regionally sourced, seasonal menu

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